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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 10:55 pm 
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Posts: 43
UPDATE: Moultrie is now offering free displays to anyone that asks that you can install yourself. Therefore I will not be pursuing purchasing displays anymore. Please call/email Moultrie directly and ask them to send you a display with instructions.


For all you guys who have failing displays on your i40, i60, m40, and m60 cams, follow the below mod to replace the screen yourself.

It took a year, but I was finally able to find a display vendor in China last month who made a drop in replacement for the one used in the Moultrie cams listed.

UPDATE: The Vendor is no longer selling these displays. I am working on an alternative.


The display does not come with the needed 14 pin header, so you have to solder one on there. Also, the display is not designed to work below 32 degrees F (0 C), but I'm doing some temp testing to see what happens below freezing. (UPDATE: I was able to test the camera and new display down to -20 degrees celsius/-4 degrees farenheit successfully without failing in a temp chamber, so this part may be good enough, though more would have to tested to be sure)

The image below shows 2 broken displays from a 2007 and 2008 camera, with the new replacement display in the middle. Notice this display is identical to the 2007 model. It could be Moultrie switched vendors in 2008, but they still fail due to the flex being pinched by the lens' hot melt tabs (see previous post I made in 2008).

Image

1. To start, remove the batteries to avoid shorting the internal boards. Also remove your SD card and the remote rubber plug.

2. Using a small screwdriver, remove the 5 screws surrounding the face of the camera housing and set aside. Slowly pull the camera face from the housing and flip over to expose the pc boards and set back upside down on the housing. Leave the battery wires connected.

3. Remove the 4 smaller screws holding down the camera board and set aside (see below). Slowly pull the pcb out all the way easing the 3 different connectors from their headers (2 go to the flash module, 1 big one to the motherboard). Be carefull not to bend the header pins or flex the board.

Image

4. Remove the 5 smaller screw holding down the motherboard and set aside (See below). Again, slowly pull out the motherboard easing the LCD display connector from its header and flip out of the way. Be careful not to pull the wires to the sensors and laser out. Don't worry about the white wire coming off its taped down position, its just the remote antenna and just wraps around the housing.

Image

5. The display module is now visible. Remove the 4 very small screws and set aside. The module will come right off now.

6. Prepare the new display by soldering a 14 pin header following the same orientation as the old display. Remove the protective plastic on the glass.

7. To ensure the new display is operating correctly you can plug it into the flipped over mother board and turn on the camera to see the startup screen. (Be very careful here, you will need to put the batteries back in, but you could also short out the electronics if metal is touching from the board to board) The below image is what it would look like.

Image

8. Before installing the new display back into the housing you need to do some preventative maintainence on the housing. To avoid the new display from also failing from the lens tabs pinching the glass, add a thin layer of packing foam to protect the flex and also helps apply even pressure (see below). You could also try to burnish some of the excess plastic on the tabs down too if it is really tall.

Image

9. Screw the display module back into the housing with the 4 smallest screws being careful that the foam doesn't slide over the lens. The 2 screws closest to foam/flex should not be screwed down all the way to avoid flexing the display and it leaves room for the foam insert.

10. Replace the motherboard, making sure the on/off switch is aligned into the small groove on the slider. Also make sure the sensor wires are out of the way. Align the display header with the connector and slowly push into place. Screw the 5 screws into place. Once in, make sure the on/off slider is moving the switch to all 3 positions.

11. Replace the camera board, being careful not to damage the IR filter and motor. Align the 3 connectors and slowly ease them in without flexing the board and replace the 4 screws.

12. Flip the camera face over and insert back onto the housing by sliding the battery door side in first into the groove and snapping the rest into place. Replace the 5 larger screws.

13. Put batteries in the camera, an SD card, and replace the rubber plug into the remote slot. You can now test your camera and see the display like the day you bought it!

Hope this helps.


Last edited by Treek on Tue Nov 10, 2009 5:49 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 8:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:32 pm
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Great write up Treek!
Just not sure I have the capability or patience to do this.
Where did you get the 14 pin header?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 8:59 pm 
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Location: SoMD
Treek,
Great post. You have spent a lot of time to find this replacement and testing it . Do you plan on selling the LCD replacement? Looking forward to reading about your results from testing.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:44 pm 
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I have a few extra displays, but since I am getting more requests I can put in another bulk order to get the cheaper price and expedite them. If you want some, I can solder the headers on and send them to you, but will need to be recouped for my expenses. I have paypal, so maybe that would work. PM me with your request and I'll see what I can do.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2009 7:52 pm
Posts: 23
Location: San Angelo,Texas
Flex being pinched by the lens? How do you change this when installing the new one?
I'm interested in this and where did you get the 14 pin header?
I just bought a 2009 model that appears to be different with a 1 second trigger time than my other 2007-2008 versions......I hope they did something to the LCD on the 2009 version but doubt it.......thats why I'm very interested!

I'm capable of doing this change of LCD thing but need some more info on the 14 pin vendor.


Edit:I just seen how to prevent the pinching...........would this be a good idea to add something right now to my new camera? May keep the Lcd from going out period in theory right?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:30 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 29, 2009 11:32 am
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Location: Denham Springs, LA
I'll just comment on if you should or shouldn't...

HECK NO! :lol:

Take a wait and see approach. You will def. void the warranty doing this and if something else goes wrong with the camera, then you're stuck with it. If the LCD doesn't go out until after the 1yr or not at all, you're not missing out on anything.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 11:13 am 
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The 14 pin header can be found at Radio Shack type electronic supply stores.
Double Row Male Headers
Image

Here's a link to an online seller (look for the 2 row 14 pin part-HEADD14)

http://www.futurlec.com/ConnHead.shtml


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 4:16 pm 
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Location: San Angelo,Texas
j-bo wrote:
I'll just comment on if you should or shouldn't...

HECK NO! :lol:

Take a wait and see approach. You will def. void the warranty doing this and if something else goes wrong with the camera, then you're stuck with it. If the LCD doesn't go out until after the 1yr or not at all, you're not missing out on anything.

True but I think I will buy the LCD so I have it........if it goes out within the warranty I'll let them fix it and if it goes out after warranty I will fix it........or take it back to Academy....lol......I can get another one at Academy after a year has passed as well......I like the cameras and with these options its getting better. I think long story short if this new LCD that Treek has found lasts that's the only thing IMO this camera was lacking..... for what I use it for anyway!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 2:53 pm 
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I ordered 2 of the LCD's from Treek.
Hopefully I will have the patience to do the repair :)


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 3:23 pm 
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Location: Denham Springs, LA
KingsX wrote:
j-bo wrote:
I'll just comment on if you should or shouldn't...

HECK NO! :lol:

Take a wait and see approach. You will def. void the warranty doing this and if something else goes wrong with the camera, then you're stuck with it. If the LCD doesn't go out until after the 1yr or not at all, you're not missing out on anything.

True but I think I will buy the LCD so I have it........if it goes out within the warranty I'll let them fix it and if it goes out after warranty I will fix it........or take it back to Academy....lol......I can get another one at Academy after a year has passed as well......I like the cameras and with these options its getting better. I think long story short if this new LCD that Treek has found lasts that's the only thing IMO this camera was lacking..... for what I use it for anyway!


It's not the LCD so much as it seems it's this in bold, it just so happens he found a source for a drop in LCD:

Quote:
To avoid the new display from also failing from the lens tabs pinching the glass, add a thin layer of packing foam to protect the flex and also helps apply even pressure (see below).


But.. good game plan. I see CG claims that the 09's have improved LCD's. What that means, who knows.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:41 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:53 am
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It appears the D40 and D60 also use this same display. I don't own one to verify, but from this picture I got from another forum, it seems you could also replace these as well.

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 11:46 pm 
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Hello Treek, do you still have some display? I would like to know how much you are selling them and how to order it. Thank you.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 2:25 pm 
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Franck wrote:
Hello Treek, do you still have some display? I would like to know how much you are selling them and how to order it. Thank you.


PM me.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 10:19 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:32 pm
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Received my new displays today, courtesy of Treek.
Followed the directions he posted on this thread and Wa-La.
Both of my I40 display's are working perfect!

Thanks again Treek!


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 12:03 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:53 am
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All you guys that have received displays, don't forget to remove the protective plastic before installing the new display. Its there, just hard to see sometimes.

6. Prepare the new display by soldering a 14 pin header following the same orientation as the old display. Remove the protective plastic on the glass.


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