- Mon Aug 31, 2009 10:55 pm
#101477
UPDATE: Moultrie is now offering free displays to anyone that asks that you can install yourself. Therefore I will not be pursuing purchasing displays anymore. Please call/email Moultrie directly and ask them to send you a display with instructions.
For all you guys who have failing displays on your i40, i60, m40, and m60 cams, follow the below mod to replace the screen yourself.
It took a year, but I was finally able to find a display vendor in China last month who made a drop in replacement for the one used in the Moultrie cams listed.
UPDATE: The Vendor is no longer selling these displays. I am working on an alternative.
The display does not come with the needed 14 pin header, so you have to solder one on there. Also, the display is not designed to work below 32 degrees F (0 C), but I'm doing some temp testing to see what happens below freezing. (UPDATE: I was able to test the camera and new display down to -20 degrees celsius/-4 degrees farenheit successfully without failing in a temp chamber, so this part may be good enough, though more would have to tested to be sure)
The image below shows 2 broken displays from a 2007 and 2008 camera, with the new replacement display in the middle. Notice this display is identical to the 2007 model. It could be Moultrie switched vendors in 2008, but they still fail due to the flex being pinched by the lens' hot melt tabs (see previous post I made in 2008).
1. To start, remove the batteries to avoid shorting the internal boards. Also remove your SD card and the remote rubber plug.
2. Using a small screwdriver, remove the 5 screws surrounding the face of the camera housing and set aside. Slowly pull the camera face from the housing and flip over to expose the pc boards and set back upside down on the housing. Leave the battery wires connected.
3. Remove the 4 smaller screws holding down the camera board and set aside (see below). Slowly pull the pcb out all the way easing the 3 different connectors from their headers (2 go to the flash module, 1 big one to the motherboard). Be carefull not to bend the header pins or flex the board.
4. Remove the 5 smaller screw holding down the motherboard and set aside (See below). Again, slowly pull out the motherboard easing the LCD display connector from its header and flip out of the way. Be careful not to pull the wires to the sensors and laser out. Don't worry about the white wire coming off its taped down position, its just the remote antenna and just wraps around the housing.
5. The display module is now visible. Remove the 4 very small screws and set aside. The module will come right off now.
6. Prepare the new display by soldering a 14 pin header following the same orientation as the old display. Remove the protective plastic on the glass.
7. To ensure the new display is operating correctly you can plug it into the flipped over mother board and turn on the camera to see the startup screen. (Be very careful here, you will need to put the batteries back in, but you could also short out the electronics if metal is touching from the board to board) The below image is what it would look like.
8. Before installing the new display back into the housing you need to do some preventative maintainence on the housing. To avoid the new display from also failing from the lens tabs pinching the glass, add a thin layer of packing foam to protect the flex and also helps apply even pressure (see below). You could also try to burnish some of the excess plastic on the tabs down too if it is really tall.
9. Screw the display module back into the housing with the 4 smallest screws being careful that the foam doesn't slide over the lens. The 2 screws closest to foam/flex should not be screwed down all the way to avoid flexing the display and it leaves room for the foam insert.
10. Replace the motherboard, making sure the on/off switch is aligned into the small groove on the slider. Also make sure the sensor wires are out of the way. Align the display header with the connector and slowly push into place. Screw the 5 screws into place. Once in, make sure the on/off slider is moving the switch to all 3 positions.
11. Replace the camera board, being careful not to damage the IR filter and motor. Align the 3 connectors and slowly ease them in without flexing the board and replace the 4 screws.
12. Flip the camera face over and insert back onto the housing by sliding the battery door side in first into the groove and snapping the rest into place. Replace the 5 larger screws.
13. Put batteries in the camera, an SD card, and replace the rubber plug into the remote slot. You can now test your camera and see the display like the day you bought it!
Hope this helps.
For all you guys who have failing displays on your i40, i60, m40, and m60 cams, follow the below mod to replace the screen yourself.
It took a year, but I was finally able to find a display vendor in China last month who made a drop in replacement for the one used in the Moultrie cams listed.
UPDATE: The Vendor is no longer selling these displays. I am working on an alternative.
The display does not come with the needed 14 pin header, so you have to solder one on there. Also, the display is not designed to work below 32 degrees F (0 C), but I'm doing some temp testing to see what happens below freezing. (UPDATE: I was able to test the camera and new display down to -20 degrees celsius/-4 degrees farenheit successfully without failing in a temp chamber, so this part may be good enough, though more would have to tested to be sure)
The image below shows 2 broken displays from a 2007 and 2008 camera, with the new replacement display in the middle. Notice this display is identical to the 2007 model. It could be Moultrie switched vendors in 2008, but they still fail due to the flex being pinched by the lens' hot melt tabs (see previous post I made in 2008).
1. To start, remove the batteries to avoid shorting the internal boards. Also remove your SD card and the remote rubber plug.
2. Using a small screwdriver, remove the 5 screws surrounding the face of the camera housing and set aside. Slowly pull the camera face from the housing and flip over to expose the pc boards and set back upside down on the housing. Leave the battery wires connected.
3. Remove the 4 smaller screws holding down the camera board and set aside (see below). Slowly pull the pcb out all the way easing the 3 different connectors from their headers (2 go to the flash module, 1 big one to the motherboard). Be carefull not to bend the header pins or flex the board.
4. Remove the 5 smaller screw holding down the motherboard and set aside (See below). Again, slowly pull out the motherboard easing the LCD display connector from its header and flip out of the way. Be careful not to pull the wires to the sensors and laser out. Don't worry about the white wire coming off its taped down position, its just the remote antenna and just wraps around the housing.
5. The display module is now visible. Remove the 4 very small screws and set aside. The module will come right off now.
6. Prepare the new display by soldering a 14 pin header following the same orientation as the old display. Remove the protective plastic on the glass.
7. To ensure the new display is operating correctly you can plug it into the flipped over mother board and turn on the camera to see the startup screen. (Be very careful here, you will need to put the batteries back in, but you could also short out the electronics if metal is touching from the board to board) The below image is what it would look like.
8. Before installing the new display back into the housing you need to do some preventative maintainence on the housing. To avoid the new display from also failing from the lens tabs pinching the glass, add a thin layer of packing foam to protect the flex and also helps apply even pressure (see below). You could also try to burnish some of the excess plastic on the tabs down too if it is really tall.
9. Screw the display module back into the housing with the 4 smallest screws being careful that the foam doesn't slide over the lens. The 2 screws closest to foam/flex should not be screwed down all the way to avoid flexing the display and it leaves room for the foam insert.
10. Replace the motherboard, making sure the on/off switch is aligned into the small groove on the slider. Also make sure the sensor wires are out of the way. Align the display header with the connector and slowly push into place. Screw the 5 screws into place. Once in, make sure the on/off slider is moving the switch to all 3 positions.
11. Replace the camera board, being careful not to damage the IR filter and motor. Align the 3 connectors and slowly ease them in without flexing the board and replace the 4 screws.
12. Flip the camera face over and insert back onto the housing by sliding the battery door side in first into the groove and snapping the rest into place. Replace the 5 larger screws.
13. Put batteries in the camera, an SD card, and replace the rubber plug into the remote slot. You can now test your camera and see the display like the day you bought it!
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Treek on Tue Nov 10, 2009 5:49 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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