|
2012
Cuddeback Ambush 28 count red flash 5 MP digital camera
review
We choose to do this
camera early in the year so we did not get clogged up
during the busy time of our review period. Out of the
box we found that they still have chosen to use that
junky little plastic bracket to mount this camera to the
tree (a little different than last year). This was one
of the negative issues for the Attack camera last year
and was reported by many. This camera is smaller and
lighter so it might have a slight chance of a little
longer life with this bracket. In appearance this camera
is a sawed off version of the attack camera and the same
color. This year they have chosen to access the SD card
and USB port through a top hinged door that opens toward
the front of the camera and is spring loaded. I thought
this was pretty cool after having to deal with the setup
that the Attack used last year. I just watched a U tube
of Melissa Bachman wearing a Cuddeback shirt give a
little presentation and her explanation of the new door
was because of what probably was said about the Attack
and no longer having to disassemble your setup to
service the camera when it was time to pull the card.
This new door allows for you to just pop the door open
(plastic latch) and access the card. Darn it, those
great plans just went sour because I just viewed the
instruction book and on page two it says that you have
to view the LCD screen (the worm) prior to removing the
SD card to ensure that the camera is not busy. She was
right that though you can access the card but
until you open the back door and view the LCD and turn
off the camera, you cannot remove it. Should you choose
to remove the card while the camera is on and writing to
the card you could very easily corrupt the SD card. You
also cannot move the switch to off either until this is
checked. So that new door plan didn’t work and we still
have to pull the cam off the setup and open yet another
door and check the LCD prior to hitting A or B or
turning the camera to the off position after checking
the LCD. This takes us back to the same issue everyone
had with the Attack camera. That plastic bracket may not
take the continuous use also. I line up all my study
materials and one of the items in that stack is the 2012
brochure that we gathered at the ATA show. There is a
chart that is called a “buyers guide” and in bold black
letters on the bottom they say that this camera is
recommended for trails and rub lines and the Attack is
good for feeders and food plots. That sure seems
different than what was said in last years advertizing
about the Attack.
This is a good looking camera and is about seven inches tall and about 3
Ľ inches wide. It sticks out off the tree when mounted
on the little plastic bracket 3 inches. The front of the
camera has the array top front and the PIR and camera
lens just below staggered a little bit. The camera lens
and PIR sensor lens is miss labeled in the book. The
camera lens is the one with the clear lens over it,
Cudde management. The bottom of the camera has the
battery box and it is held by the bottom screw on the
back. Above that on the back is another screw which is
what slides into the plastic bracket for tree mounting.
The top screw on the back also is to secure the access
door for the programming switch and LCD screen. Except
for the flaw with the SD card compartment this
programming method seems to be well thought out. The
need to tear down the setup to service the camera is
still a bit flawed. We feel that the on/off switch
should be under the top door with a camera working
indicator there also and then the top door becomes
functional.
This is a very basic camera that is still/video only but it has now the
great minimum delay time of 5 seconds which after the
fact lessons they learned last year they attempted a
firmware down load to change that. They also still have
chosen that “centered subject” technology again this
year which was one of the down sides of previously
produced cameras. If you could imagine a piece of
hallway runner carpet that is about three feet wide and
twenty five feet long that is laid down in a straight
line out in front of this camera then you could see the
approximate area that this camera would cover when
deployed. Even with the great trigger speeds that cudde
has had, we still say that if the camera cannot see
the animal it will not take the picture. This has been
put to the test many times by us with much lesser
cameras (cheaper) with the wide angle motion sensors and
slower trigger speeds and those cameras have always
taken a far greater amount of pictures and missed very
few. They say the flash is good out to 25 feet and they
recommend that the camera be placed 10 to 15 feet (pg 5)
from the target area, so now imagine that same piece of
carpet now just 15 feet long. Aim is highly critical in
order to get the target animals into that tiny area.
These figures and recommendations are taken from their
own publications and are not from our actual tests which
will come later as we move through the review.
With cam in hand and a new SD card installed (just slips in with no
click) I headed for my oak tree to take a couple of
pictures while the camera is bright and shiny for the
review. The strap loop on one side of the plastic
bracket broke the first time out.

Next when I raised the top lid, the SD compartment filled with bark
debris because of the close proximity to the tree and
the door opening toward the front. (good thing I had the
card installed). This reminded me of my experience with
the lunch box Moultrie cameras (top door) where I
actually had bark debris fall down the SD card slot and
this caused me to spend hours with a dental pick and
light magnifier getting that out of the slot. That same
camera had problems with when early morning dew was on
the leaves above the camera and the action of just
servicing the camera we had drops of water fall on the
top of the now unprotected area of the camera and that
moisture went down the SD card slot and USB port. This
did not happen with us this time getting ready for
taking pictures because things were dry when the loop
broke but it would be a strong potential of a repeat of
what we had happen during that Moultrie review. Now
let’s just think, what if you service the camera on the
tree and you have small bark pieces fall and it lands on
just the area where the spring loaded top door seal
hits? If you fail to notice this and release the door
then the top of the camera would not seal and then a
good rain would definitely be a problem. This makes a
good case for some kind of roof to be mandatory on any
camera having this type of system to protect the camera.
It is also a very strong case for the camera to be
removed from the tree away from the bark and wet leaves
when ever the top compartment is open and accessed. Next
I headed for the shop to make a new mounting bracket and
to blow out the remaining debris so I could finally
begin taking the pictures without all the trash being
shown in them. I was wondering just why so much bark
debris fell into the camera and I now have figured this
out. The top spring loaded lid sticks out past the back
edge of the camera about a half an inch. If you choose
to use that little plastic bracket to mount the camera,
the normal practice is to mount that bracket on the tree
then slide the camera down into a thin plastic slot. If
you are paying attention to this alignment and pushing
the camera down the top lid portion that sticks out past
the back hits the tree and raises it up as you move the
camera down into the slot and drags bark pieces off the
tree and onto the now partly open compartment. This
setup is pretty sorry and not very well thought out.
I opened up everything to air out the camera and I noticed that there is
a seal on the bottom battery compartment door and the
battery terminal wires are about 1/8th inch
inside this door from the bottom edge.
The two right and left sides of this seal are loose and roll in as the
battery box is inserted and there is an opening through
into this compartment that water could enter. This also
got me to thinking about a similar camera that also had
a bottom compartment that was somewhat protected; this
was the old Scoutguard 550. Its battery compartment was
much further up inside the bottom compartment but some
found that when used in a closed security box like the “cuddesafe”,
water from a driving rain would get deep enough that
there was a chance of damage. This camera would need
only a fraction of the water inside the security box as
the Scoutguard to have those exposed wires from the
battery in the pool. This means that it would probably
be a good idea to make sure that you modify any security
enclosure like the cuddesafe so that adequate drainage
was provided to the bottom of the security box for
drainage to prevent this or just use the camera without
the security box. The 550 worked well when just put on
the tree without being in an enclosed environment or
when box drainage was provided and the moisture would
just drain straight down.
The main programming compartment is not sealed but it appears that this
may be ok unless there is a way inside the camera behind
the rotating knob. The rain can definitely leak into
this area all the way to the switch and LCD.
There is a opening at the top of this compartment and
the inside of the door has a big plastic X on it. If the
rain came in the top this X would channel the water to
be dropped directly on top of the rotating knob. (sure
hope there is a seal behind that knob).
I built myself an angle mounting bracket using one of Custom1enterprises
mini mounting brackets and two small plates and 4
screws. (see the custom one
review on this product) A new eight pack of cells
that went through a test were out and ready to put in
the battery holder.
Here
is yet another small issue but can be worked around if
you are careful. This is probably a very low class
battery holder because the springs fold over with just a
bit of pressure so much care is needed when filling this
holder up to ensure that they remain straight and flat
against the negative portion of each cell. This holder
is obviously from some other application because the
terminals are like you see on a standard 9 volt battery.
These must be lined up with two spring terminals up
inside the camera. Once the holder is slid up in place
the gasket now has to be inspected left and right to
ensure that it is somewhat in place and then the door
can be closed and held firmly in place while the screw
is tightened.
Note: When changing the batteries,
the settings are lost.
I had not yet turned the switch to on and taken a look at the
programming because all of the above items had surfaced.
Just to be fair I took a new Attack and set it up a long
side and just took a quick fit and feel look at things
and it is my opinion that the QA on this camera is yet
another step down hill just being compared to the Attack
which had its share of issues.
There is no need to comment on the documentation or specifications. The
booklet is very small and general in information and
there are no published specifications inside either.
With the camera off the tree and top back door opened I
rotated the switch to the time/date positions and using
the two A and B buttons I advanced
up through
the selections until I found the proper numbers. There
are no down options available. This setup was simple and
went well. I then headed for the dark room and tried a
few sample pictures in the IR mode. The 5 second delay
seemed to be stretched out to about 8 seconds which is
not to awfully bad. The IR pictures had good black white
shades and very little grey wash. They were somewhat
fuzzy. Next to the outside with the sun behind the
camera I gathered my first test samples and I will say
there is very good color but the picture quality is not
sharp and clear at all. The dead pixel test showed no
significant indication of this. First sensing for a 46
degree day showed out to about 26 feet unofficial. I
have noticed now that I have been into the top spring
loaded compartment a bunch of times that the latch
disengages without any effort which is not good.
After market security for this camera is needed for those who have areas
that are not particularly safe. Make sure that what ever
box you get has some degree of drainage through the
bottom to prevent moisture from reaching the battery
holder.
I have may have discovered yet another problem. This is in the video
mode and it is because of the picture first and then the
video. What I did was to set up for 5 second delay
plus video and when I would cross in front of the camera
at a normal walk at about ten feet it would catch me in
the picture most every time but then the video was
empty. This means that it takes time for it to trigger
and shutter the picture then write time to the card
prior to starting the video capture. I will try to move
out a little further and see what happens but the
documentation states to try to stay inside 15 feet for
the best results. That does not leave much room when
video is selected. I moved out and performed the same
test and crossed (normal walk) several times at 12, 15,
20, and 25 feet and the picture had me each time but the
video missed me every time. I was not very impressed by
the grainy poor quality video even when it was blank
with no movement being recorded. With out putting this
camera on our analyzer to get exact times I would judge
from observing the firing of the array that the video is
started at some time shortly after the two second mark.
Attempts out past that distance did not work because of
the sensing. These last few tests were done after dark
and I did not see any IR burn on the close passes but
being I was moving at a normal walk across in front of
the camera there was motion blur in the pictures that
were being taken ahead of the empty videos.
I went ahead and worked into the evening and did angle walks at a
diagonal to the camera. On the approaching angle and
crossing around the 15 foot range the camera still
missed me in the video. Doing the same angle but in the
other direction away from the camera the video would
have a blip of me in the first couple of frames at the
very edge. This sure makes the test against the
“centered subject technology” as being absolutely
ineffective. Only getting the picture with nothing in
the video this means that the next picture without video
would be in about 20 plus seconds. This pretty well
shows that this camera really only has limited function
in the picture mode.
You can see that we have chosen not to speak of warranty or customer
service in relationship to this camera. We do however
strongly suggest that if you choose to purchase your own
Ambush camera that you choose a vendor that has a very
good return policy. We prefer vendors like Cabelas which
supply a free return label in the box should you have a
problem with the purchased product. We also suggest that
you make up your mind and do your own in house and yard
tests prior to field deployment and should you have a
problem with the function, just use the supplied label
and return it to that vendor for an
exchange, replacement,
or refund. Warranty and customer service has
been fully discussed in the past.
I forgot to mention about the first bracket I made after the original
plastic mount broke. It is made from an 80 cent
electrical switch plate cover. I drilled the appropriate
sized holes and connected them by using a hack saw blade
and drilled holes for the bungee to catch. I then made a
couple of bends to hit the tree and allow room behind
the plate for the camera mounting screws to clear the
bark when it is slid down on the bracket and it works
great. Be sure to select a plate that has the proper
thickness so it will fit inside the slots in the
mounting screw heads.
Because of the type of sensing on this camera, it is not
advised to raise the camera up and have it look down on
an area. This is a normal practice with other wide angle
sensor type cameras to keep the red IR flash above the
target animal’s eyes. By raising this camera above your
head and aiming it down would severely limit the already
limited sensing area to just a spot on the ground. With
this camera it would be better to lower it down to about
three feet off the ground and have it looking out even
with the contour of the target area. This way you can
probably get the full use of that 25 foot sensing range.
02-09-2012 update: In the process of moving
into the next phase we first started with the day
range/8 plate sample. This happened a little late and we
had some sun at the top of the picture but it still
allowed us to analyze the pictures which still showed
the degree of fuzziness that my original tests
indicated. This test will be re done sometime later
earlier in the day as time allows. Next came the sensing
and this will definitely be effective out to the 25 foot
flash range as long as you have movement in that tiny
center area. Out past 25 feet with the winter
temperatures hanging around 50 degrees, it was sketchy
to get repeated triggers on the center line in the 30
foot range. The IR flash test is as they indicated “good
to 25 feet”, but the picture quality is not so good.
Please check the sample pictures to make your own
decision as to just how good the pictures are.
02-10-2012 update: The more time we spend
with this camera the more of a concern we are having
with the top door arrangement. The plastic latch
assembly has now slowly become worn to the point that a
slight bump will dislodge the catch. The last thing that
you need to do prior to exiting the area after you have
done your setup is to inspect the camera and ensure that
the top is fully closed. Then upon return for service
(card change) you should inspect the area inside that
compartment for bark debris. We have found this to be a
real issue. Can you imagine a piece of bark debris the
size of this zero "0" and
to have it fall down the slot and land in the terminal
area of the SD card slot? You then insert the new card
and force that piece of debris into the slot. This would
cause the camera to become non functional when a card is
used. So, please inspect and blow out that compartment
prior to doing any service to the SD card. The prime
area to observe once you arrive in the field and when
the top door is open is the area directly behind the
installed card that is hard to see unless the camera is
off the tree. These small hunks of bark seem to roll up
behind the card and stick there.
02-11-2012 update: Even though we had
plenty of animals in the area we were just not capturing
any pictures. We had to actually take the corn and
spread it in a line straight out in front of the camera
and then we were able to capture a few night pictures.
Because we had to disturb the area to do this we
probably caused the deer to exit the area and we did not
get any day pictures during that time.
The
day range was re done and the trigger times completed
(see below) for the pictures.
02-15-2012 update: This camera has been
deployed about another four days and it just is not
capturing any pictures. Birds, squirrels, turkey, cats,
coons, or any other small animals are totally being
missed. We are getting just a few night time pictures of
deer (less than 10) but day pictures are just not
happening. The day temperature has ranged in a spread of
from a low in the 40 to a high near 70. Night
temperatures have ranged from a low in the 20’s to a
high of mid 40’s. This is a very decent temperature
spread for PIR detection with a 50+ degree difference
between the ambient and body temperatures. If we do not
see a change in performance very soon, we are going to
pull the plug on this review and mark it off as being a
non performer. The line of corn is being eaten by
something but it is definitely not getting its picture
taken. We are going to drop 10 more inches down to two
feet and see if the performance changes.
02-16-2012 update: I misspoke with the last
update. We are getting other night time pictures, but
not as many as we should. We however are not getting day
pictures at all. The only pictures are of us pouring out
the corn directly in front of the camera. The camera is
now lower on the tree so we will watch for a change and
will maybe have some more data by this afternoon.
02-17-2012 update: We did not manage to get
day pictures but when we switched to video we did manage
to capture both day and night samples. (please view
below) The video samples are just plain bad and there is
no need for further explanation.
02-18-2012 update: We again took the
approach that we may have received cameras that were bad
and the test results reflected that. A long research of
other users and more time taken trying to see if that
was the case has shown us that our results so far have
proven to be very much the normal function of this unit.
During that search we did how ever come up with yet
another source for what appears to be a product that can
give owners another option to mounting and lockable
security for this camera. This can be seen at this
companies address.
www.yohemounts.com
The plastic mounting bracket that came with this camera
and broke the first time out also caused me to ask some
questions. It seems that if you run the belt through the
loops and on around the tree and then tighten it up, it
is very difficult to break the bracket. This method also
does not provide enough strength to effectively lock the
bracket to the tree to prevent sagging because of the
top heavy camera. The method we learned to use because
of our experience with the very top heavy Attack camera,
was to run the strap through the loop from the outside
and then around the back of the tree and back through
the other loop from the inside and then pull both ends
to the back of the tree and buckle it down. This method
is much more secure but we now know that little plastic
bracket is not strong enough for this method because you
can apply enough pressure to get the bracket good and
tight. The self manufactured bracket or maybe one of the
after market brackets like the one from Jay at yohemounts.com may be the answer to this issue.
We have spent more than enough time on this camera and
we are just going to go ahead and close the review. The
limited function just does not justify the additional
time.
02-27-2012 update: We went ahead and left
the camera out and the secret is to mount the camera
about two feet off the ground and place the bait about
ten feet in front of the camera and do it in the direct
center and if they come the camera will find them
provided they hit that center line and are in that
range. We did
not have a lot of pictures and videos from this camera
(less than 100) and at the close the batteries were down
to 1.43 volts (52%).This concludes this review.
Trigger Tests
(without flash .39s)
 (with flash
.56s)
 |
|
|
|
Dead Pixel
Test
 |
|
Flash Range

Day Range/8 Plate
(a little too much sun in the lens - will retest
when we get a chance)

 |
|
|
|
Video Samples

|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|