Camera placement

• Always try to place your trail cam looking north or south. If faced into the rising and setting sun the light will wash out any pictures that are taken during that time.
   

• When placed in a small cleared out area where there is tall foliage across from the camera, the sun in the morning warming the leaves will sometimes set off the camera.
   

• Try to clean the area in front of the camera of any vegetation that can be moved by the wind. Usually 20 to 30 feet is enough unless it is a large weed or brush then a greater distance would be necessary.
   

• Be aware of the sensing capability of your camera. Place your camera well with in that range. Too close or too far will result in missed pictures. In most cases 15 to 20 feet to the target area in the summer is about right. During the colder weather some cameras will sense out to 100 feet.  This can be a problem when  cold and darkness allows the camera to trigger outside the range of the flash.
   

• When placing your trail camera to watch a rub line or scrape you should elevate the camera well above the eyelevel of the animal and have it looking down on the desired area. A flash coming from above will not bother these wary critters as much as if was at eye level. It is believed that the flash coming from above is similar to lightning and does not scare the bucks. This also applies to the IR flash cameras. This is important in that if you plan to hunt this same area you would not want to have this animal disturbed and possibly abandon the area due to being scared by the flash.
   

• When putting your camera to watch scrapes and you are getting a lot of activity, it is felt that this the bucks way of advertising. When this activity at the scrape drops off suddenly that is the time the buck will be out on the chase and is a good indication that the rut is in full swing.
   

• The average trigger time (movement to picture taken) with most cameras is 2 to 5 seconds. Aiming the camera directly across a trail in most cases will result in missed pictures or a lot of animal tail ends. We have found that aiming the camera so it is looking at an approaching or exiting animal is most effective for trail watching. When possible have it looking up or down the trail. When viewing a feeder or salt lick, or areas where the animal will have prolonged exposure just get your right sensing distance and observe the north south position.
   

• Corn Feeders:  We found that after placing a new corn feeder in a field our deer movement in that area stopped.  Week after week passed before we learned that you should camouflage the feeder.  See how we bungeed limbs to ours and placed it on top of a small pine.  Immediately our camera began to capture deer photos!

Camera mounting

• The advertising for trail cameras always show the camera mounted to a tree. This is acceptable if the tree is in the 8 to 10 inch caliper.
   

• Winter mounting on smaller trees will work because after the leaves have fallen the wind will have little effect on the tree movement.
   

• During the time of full foliage the wind will move even larger trees to the extent the camera will trigger.
   

• The best solution to this is to build a camera stand that is pushed into the ground next to a tree. The camera stands are not affected by the wind and when placed next to a tree provides good concealment and a place to secure your camera from theft.
  
  Click here for some of the engineers own camera stand designs.
   

• Mounting height can be from 24 to 40 inches. When mounted low, small game like armadillos and squirrels will trigger the camera. These, will in most cases will be missed if the camera is mounted a little higher.
   

• With the IR flash cameras in movie mode, a flickering red glow is put off by the camera. This red glow will really spook a deer. To avoid spooking deer with the flickering red glow from the IR flash, place the camera above the animals eye level looking down and they will not spook.
   

• Grabbing frames and video at animal's eye level.  Click here.

Camera Camouflage

• Case Camo Idea with Sharpie:
  
  This camera is textured like tree bark, but all one color.  Take a Sharpie pen, and highlight the bark.
  
   

Camera security

• These small high dollar items are a prime target for would be thieves.
   

• We have really worked on this problem. In some cases we have used the camouflage tape used for archery and such to disguise the appearance of the cameras.
   

• The most effective method is to use the small bungee cords (I found them in Home Depot) around the camera and just use the vegetation you have cleared away from in front of the camera to disguise it from view. When doing this be careful not to have any of the cords or vegetation covering any of the sensors or lenses.
   

• In real problem areas we chose to use a well disguised camera to watch a camera.
   

• Good locking devices and camera cages are a must. Most of the manufactures have a security box that can be purchased to fit the camera. 
   

• In the cases where a locking cage was not available we built our own. We prefer cables over chain because they are a little harder to cut with a bolt cutter.  Here is the Buckeye Cam Base mounted in a locking bracket.  Here is the Buckeye Cam in a wire frame cage mounted on a stand.  Check out all mounting techniques.
   

• When you unpack your new camera in preparation to take it to the woods, take the time to record the serial numbers and scratch in an identifying name or number so if lost those numbers can be reported to the authorities.
   

• Cam-A-Flage:  Camouflage your camera with the engineers own design.  View the before and after pics here.

Batteries and solar panels

• Literally all the camera companies that use D cell batteries, recommend the use of Duracell or Energizer brand batteries.
   

• This process becomes extremely expensive when several cameras are involved. The use of the NIMH 4500 mAh (as a minimum) rechargeable batteries is a better answer. They are a little less in voltage but all our cams work fine with them.
   

• Some of cameras use rechargeable lead acid sealed batteries such as the 6 volt lantern and 12 volt UPS batteries. These are available at Radio Shack and much cheaper Batteries Plus Stores.
   

• In most cases the aftermarket chargers like battery tenders that can be found at ATV stores and Battery Plus outlets are best.
   

• We have adapted most of our cameras to solar panels. This really extends the battery life and lessens the hassle of battery changing and charging.
   

• Caution: It is our practice to carry multiple batteries and memory cards when we make our rounds to check our trail cameras. It has been reported that an individual was transporting the 6 volt battery for his Moultrie trail cam on the way to the field when the battery rolled under the cars seat. The protective caps that came on the battery had been removed and when the battery slid under the car seat it made contact with some metal and resulted in a fire that destroyed the individual’s automobile. Some of the cameras we use have the larger 6 and 12 volt batteries similar to the computer UPS batteries and they also could cause a fire if not properly handled. Care must be taken when handling and transporting and be sure that the protective caps are re installed after charging to prevent the accidental shorting out of the terminals.

Film vs Digital

• No contest here, the digital wins every time.
   

• Our film cameras work very well but sometimes it takes weeks to fill a film role then it must be taken for that ever cost increasing processing.
   

• A role of film plus one processing equals the cost of some 64 MB cards. The cards can be used over and over hundreds of times.
   

• The pictures taken by film cameras are what you get and are a final product. The pictures from a digital camera which are stored on a media card can be downloaded to your computer. Once on your computer they can be enhanced using simple programs like Google's free download Picasa. 
   

  Examples using Google's Picasa Photo Management Software

  Here is an example of a before and after picture using Picasa to enhance with lighting and other effects.  You can imagine our surprise when we first looked at an empty photo then we actually see two trespassers on horseback !

  Here is another example of before and after of a large bobcat using Picasa!

  One more before and after using Google's Picasa to enhance the trail cam photo. Click the photos for a larger version (taken with the Leaf River camera) Before After

• Those really dark pictures will probably reveal an animal in the background once lightened using simple enhancement techniques. (see the examples above using Picasa)
   

• Other advantages are that once on your computer those images can be emailed to your friends or other places you chose. These images also will be a running history of game animals, movement times, movement areas, problems like trespassers, wild dogs, and unwanted animals.

Keep Lenses Clean

• Use Lens Wipes to clean the lenses each time you check your cameras.
   
• Build hoods to keep the rain and dew off the lenses or you'll get pictures like these.
   
• Place desiccants inside camera cavities to absorb moisture.

Scent Control

• Always try to use some type of cover scent on your boots when making rounds to check cameras.  We have used the earth--pine--squirrel juice--fox--deer cover scents on our boots with good success. Those weeks that we forgot to use the scents the game pictures would drop to near zero. A lot of time is spent in the camera areas changing out cards and batteries also during set up because you must prune out unwanted vegetation and such for the site preparation.  Try to be aware of where you are touching and what you are doing as to minimize your scent trail.

Viewing pictures in the field

Ants in your camera?

Ortho Home Defense:

The following pictures show a Cuddeback camera strapped to a feeder after being treated with Ortho.  The deer do not appear to mind the smell: (click for larger view)

Phase II of our testing shows this camera, powered up with batteries resting in an active red ant bed.

PIR Sensor Damage