[Anthony]

Thanks for the effort. If we can get more people doing this, it will keep CG honest in our testing. No one should question bias after that. Thanks !

[chafro]

What i dont understand is why realese a camera with so much issues.

trail cameras are not very complicate to test under diferent situations and you should be able to detect most of the problems and fix before a realese. Having a faulty camera is different than having a faulty product in general.

They could easily save alot of time and money for themselfs with a couple of weeks of testing.

I just dont get it.

[T-post]

I added some light to my test area to get the camera to switch from IR; results are very good.
Daytime trigger speed of about 1 second for my early production 2010 BTC.







I also had my resizing software leave the EXIF data intact in case anyone was curious about what firmware version etc.


Now if it would only take daytime photos without "white out" and not have the occasional "runaway" episodes....

[Roscoe]

The only other fault was blurry nighttime pictures on a fast moving dog.

Fault???

Every IR cam does that on moving subjects.

[DoubleDropTine]

So am I reading that this camera went from over 2 seconds and is now down to 1 or less.

[T-post]

So am I reading that this camera went from over 2 seconds and is now down to 1 or less.

Basically yes, but it can also be interpreted as the variance between different production versions; which is why it would be be good for other camera owners to run the same test on their cameras and post the results.

[Anthony]

So am I reading that this camera went from over 2 seconds and is now down to 1 or less.

No. The times we published on our original review is for the original version which was replaced by the one in the Revisit.

Some old stock may still be available so those camera may still get purchased but new stock operates like the camera we have now in the Revisit.

[Loland]

Coincidently, I was just trying to test the trigger speed on my 2010 BTC, and documenting the process.

Here's a link to the best on-line stopwatch:
http://stopwatch.onlineclock.net/
Be sure to click on "extra large" in the upper left corner of the screen.

What is triggering the camera to take picture?

[T-post]

Walking between the camera and computer triggers the camera. The stopwatch is started by positioning a wireless mouse cursor on the "START" button, then clicking the mouse button as you walk in front of the camera.

Have you read some recent threads here where they were using a laptop on barstool and a wireless mouse to activate an online stopwatch timer as they triggered the camera ? In any case this would be a cheap and easy way to test trigger times if have this set up.

Any computer for that matter with a wireless mouse and a way to position the camera 3 feet or so away from the monitor. position the mouse cursor over the "start" button on the online timer, then pick up the mouse and as you swipe down in front of the pir sensor on the camera also click the mouse button to start the timer.

I set the delay at 10 seconds, then wait 20 seconds between tests just to be safe. So you can do 3 tests per minute approx. In just a few minutes you can do 10 easily, then check your results. You can cover the array and turn off the lights but you may have to turn down the brightness on your monitor to test them at night which you should do as you get different times at night.

I appreciate the interest and help.

[buxndux]

Walking between the camera and computer triggers the camera. The stopwatch is started by positioning a wireless mouse cursor on the "START" button, then clicking the mouse button as you walk in front of the camera.

Seems it would be difficult to start the timer when the camera first picks up motion using this method. The wide angle lens will pick up motion before you walk in front of the camera. When testing my homebrews with HPWA fresnals, I found a more accurate way is to place your hand in front of the sensor and hold it steady until the time delay between pictures has expired. Then move it away in a steady motion to trigger the camera. This way you are starting from the center of the detection range versus the outer edges of the detection range…which isn't as clearly defined.

Not saying your data is wrong, you may not see much variance between the two methods. I just found it to be much more consistent using the hand method in my own testing.

[T-post]

Seems it would be difficult to start the timer when the camera first picks up motion using this method. The wide angle lens will pick up motion before you walk in front of the camera. When testing my homebrews with HPWA fresnals, I found a more accurate way is to place your hand in front of the sensor and hold it steady until the time delay between pictures has expired. Then move it away in a steady motion to trigger the camera. This way you are starting from the center of the detection range versus the outer edges of the detection range…which isn't as clearly defined.

Holding your hand in front of the camera, waiting for the time out to expire, is going to be more accurate, but it is hard to do on a camera such as my Moultrie, that has a minimum interval of 1 minute.

I think what matters most is that test are performed consistently using the same method, so that the data is reliable. More than likely, the fact that we're walking 12" away from the PIR, negates any discernible error due to differences in PIR field width.

[Anthony]

If you were to coincide the movement of your had in front of the pir (top down motion) with the click of the mouse it will be more accurate. You need to wear a watch to know how long to wait after you have triggerred it, or just let your timer keep going for like 30 seconds or 70 (in the case of a Moultrie).

If you trigger the camera early then start the timer, your trigger times appear shorter. This is why using a motion up and down is better than left to right.

[slugger]

I don't have a Bushy trail cam but I have had my share of bad experiences with other bad one. I had 4 consecutive bad SG 550s. I finally gave up on them. I have had some good Bushnell stuff and some not-so-good, the biggest problem was always their customer service, or rather, their lack of!

After reading a few reviews, I decided to steel clear of these things completely. A game camera is not a good place to have reliability issues as you are usually not able to baby sit them- you set them up and come back later and hope you got the results you paid for. Some of my cameras are a 4 hour drive and a 30 minute hike to get to them. I would probably throw it off a cliff if I got results like you're reporting.

I am not opposed to the bad reviews or the good ones, so long as they are objective.

[backusmn]

just looked at my pictures on my new 2010 bushnell and they all came out fine. over 700 pics in 10 days. I had it set to take two pics at a time..... not one white out and only 10 with nothing in the picture. I read all the bad reviews but I would have no problem buying another one. This was my first trail camera, just bought a wildview 55dir and put it out the day I picked up my pictures from the 2010 bushnell.

[T-post]

This whole thread has gone in so many directions that we ought to regroup for clarity:

* The original 2010 BTC review trigger time results were 1.2 seconds.
* My 2010 BTC is one of the first ones produced. Creation software 4600000Lx0101B.
* My trigger time using the "barstool/on-line stopwatch" method is about 1 second.
* My camera has "white-outs" and other issues, as do other owners report.
* Anthony has found that his newest version of the 2010 BTC has a much longer trigger time than those that he originally tested....thus, he has made a second review for the same camera ("2010 Bushnell XLT Revisit').
* Anthony would like to see what sort of trigger time results that other folks are getting on their newest 2010 BTC cameras using the "barstool/on-line stopwatch" method as well as what software version they have.

Now I may have things confused, if so, please correct me so that we can all be on the same page...